Emy LaCroix
- I took a historic World War II-era ferry to a quaint island off the coast of Maine.
- The boat was bare-bones, but the ride to Monhegan Island was pleasant.
- We enjoyed a full day on the scenic island and took a more modern ferry on the way home.
When I was invited to join my best friend at her grandparents’ picture-perfect cottage on the coast of Maine, all I wanted to do was amble lazily around the little seaside towns, sunbathe in the garden, and forget that time exists.
There was, however, one highly suggested activity that required prior planning: a day trip to Monhegan Island.
This small, car-free island is only accessible by boat, so I took a $53 round-trip ride on the Monhegan Boat Line to get there.
Here’s how it went.
Emy LaCroix
Wanting to stretch our day trip as long as possible, my friend and I decided to take the earliest ferry available at 7 a.m.
We didn’t realize, however, that this particular time slot in the summer season comes with a special treat — a ride aboard the historic Laura B.
Built in 1943, the small workboat spent its early years carrying troops and supplies in the Pacific during World War II. In 1946, it started running lobsters from Maine to Boston and New York City.
Nowadays, the boat is stationed in Port Clyde and carries passengers, mail, and freight to Monhegan Island.
Emy LaCroix
The tiny mailboat’s wooden interior is no-frills, with four rows of seats and two restrooms.
The deck was filled with deliveries — piles of beverages and supplies for the island’s businesses sat on the bow — but many bright-eyed travelers opted to stand outside among them.
Emy LaCroix
The ride to Monhegan Island took a little over an hour. As it came to an end, we rode through the morning haze before finally coasting into the quiet harbor, which looked like a painting in the golden morning light.
Emy LaCroix
Our first stop off the boat was to a café called The Barnacle, which sells souvenirs, drinks, and pastries. We bought breakfast sandwiches, chai lattes, and a house-made energy bar — everything we needed for our island trek.
After breakfast, we walked up the gravelly main street and it felt like we stepped back in time. We saw no cars, a cart selling maps of the island (with just a box to collect payment on the honor system), wooden signs, and a white one-room schoolhouse.
After a short climb up a steep hill, we reached the Monhegan Museum and lighthouse — and an incredible view of the sleepy harbor and quaint houses nestled around it.
From the lighthouse, we walked through a butterfly-speckled field and a damp forest, reaching the opposite coast in just 10 minutes.
Emy LaCroix
Despite my childhood sailing around New England — and a decade of adulthood in Southern California — I was blown away by the breathtaking bluffs on Monhegan Island.
We followed uneven dirt paths and log bridges down the coast, with each turn unveiling gorgeous new landscapes: a rocky cove, a serene tide pool, colorful wildflowers, and a rusted-out shipwreck.
Emy LaCroix
Everywhere we went, we saw hand-drawn signs for the annual Cardboard Regatta — an event where locals gather on Swim Beach to paddle (with varying success) their homemade tape-and-cardboard vessels to Fish Beach.
We joined what felt like the whole town to watch this unique local event, which typically takes place in August. I felt lucky to have stumbled upon it by chance.
Emy LaCroix
Next, we wandered over to the island’s lobster-trap-lined brewery, Monhegan Brewing Company, for a beer flight and some crispy pickle chips.
We also ordered the house-made root beer to go, which was incredible.
Emy LaCroix
The trip home was aboard the Elizabeth Ann, a larger, more modern boat with a heated cabin, two restrooms, and a sightseeing deck.
The way back included somewhat of a tour, with a loop around the outside of the island and some fun facts shared over the loudspeakers.
The full ride was a little less than an hour, and though the Elizabeth Ann offered comfier indoor seats than the Laura B, we opted to get the best view by standing at the bow the entire time.
Emy LaCroix
After docking in Port Clyde, we grabbed a couple of scoops at Village Ice Cream and enjoyed it at the nearby Marshall Point Lighthouse, famously featured in “Forrest Gump.” It was the perfect way to end the day.
Overall, if you’re seeking a unique day trip that allows you to unplug, be fully present, and get inspired, I can’t recommend a visit to this peaceful, friendly, and beautiful island enough.
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